Spain and Portugal – Penedones to Termal de Barbates
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Penedones to Termal de Barbates
We awake here on the campsite at Penedones to a cooler day that starts at 12°C but soon warms up to 25°C as the sun rises higher.
After breakfast we walk from the campsite at Penedones to Travassos de Chã accompanied by the dog from the farm who clearly knew the way and thoroughly enjoyed the adventure! The village was 1.7km along the road, crossing the empty arm of the reservoir. Nothing moving at Travassos, some interesting old buildings, granary on stilts and cows with cow bells. Along the way we noted a few birds and many sweet chestnut trees with their spiny balls holding the chestnuts.
After lunch, we have a quiet afternoon in the pleasant warm sunshine. I finish some writing (the Painting) and start another short piece (the Bridge) and Mr C. sits and using water colours, paints the building opposite our camping spot, built of heavy granite blocks with an orange tiled roof it makes an interesting piece. Late afternoon two more campers arrive, making four of us who stay overnight. Later I see cars and hear talking at the square glass café by the reservoir and walk the 200m across the road and up the hill.
The café, Aqua Barroso is open and family groups are sat outside at tables under the trees and some inside also at the bar. They are drinking wine and eating food. I see Emma (from the Netherlands) who is in the camper next to us which has broken down (gear box problem) and is here until she can get a recovery vehicle here up in the mountains, to take her to a repairs garage who can assess what is needed and repair it. She thinks she may be here some time. Young Humberto, who runs the campsite for his father has been very helpful as have other campers with a car to take her for shopping. At the café it seems that it is Humberto (senior’s) birthday and all the family are here for a celebration. We are going to take photos and leave but Emma asks if we will stay and eat with her if Young Humberto is agreeable. She asks and negotiates a three-course meal for the three of us. She has a carafe of deep red Portuguese wine which we share and we get another later.
The wine is good and in the outdoors with company it goes down very easily! We start with bread and Barroso ham, from Young Humberto’s own pig, followed by thick pork chops (same pig!) cooked in the outdoor clay oven Portuguese style, served with potatoes and cabbage. It is very good and goes well with the Portuguese wine. Later he brings small, sweet puddings with syrup (I suspect that are a sweet form of Yorkshire pudding made with batter) and we three sit into the dark of the evening under the trees overlooking the Aqua Barroso reservoir. Emma speaks good English and we talk about politics, our children and all that is wrong in the world!
Later, when we go back to the camper and bed, we feel the effects of the wine, and I wonder why the path isn’t straight!
As is the way in Portugal you are not really sure what the meal would be, or how much it’s going to cost. If you ask about the price they say things like “If you don’t like it you don’t pay” which is not really helpful. For information the meal was €25 per person including the wine.
During the night Gill hears heavy rain and remembers we left the tables and chairs out. So she gets up and brings them in, as they are near the door. In the morning the rain has stopped but it is overcast and cool, about 16°C. We shower and have breakfast and plan the day to move on to Spain.
Before we leave Penedones we walk over to the café and see Young Humberto to pay for last night and say goodbye. Also to Emma who is still waiting for the recovery vehicle to come from Braga for her campervan. We service the camper but before we leave we place the large Union Jack flag across the dashboard of Hymer in honour and recognition of Queen Elizabeth II, of her 70-year reign, a life well-lived and in remembrance of her at her funeral today. We receive several messages of condolence for our country and for our Queen from other campers, she was clearly much respected around the world.
It is after midday when we leave Penedones on N103 through Chã onto M509 through the mountains to Montalegre and on, to the Portugal/Spain border which is in the middle of nowhere. The only reason we know we are in Spain is the Galicia road sign and a change of road name to OU-1109. Another mountain road takes us to the village of Baltar and the OU-304 to Xinzo de Lima. Here Google maps takes a short cut through the tiny (and very narrow) mountain village of Baronzás, it was considerably shorter but what you might call a ‘very exciting’ drive on a bit-too-narrow road. However, we get through without problem and stop at a new Mercadona supermarket.
Now in Spain we can get fresh milk, abundant supplies and variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, Serrano ham cut from the bone, fresh crevette and fish of every kind (including octopus, monk fish and conga eel). Mercadona sells a wide variety of fresh meat including chicken feet and pig’s snout, which we don’t buy but send a photograph to our children who are suitably horrified! The crevette are fat and large and well-priced. We restock the fridge with food and wine and find our way onto A-52, a good main road all the way to Ourense. Here we turn off the main highway along a small road to Barbantes with thermal pools next to the river Minho.
The Area de servicio para Autocaravanas is a small circle for 8 – 10 units under trees, behind the café and next to three thermal pools. We park up under the trees, the temperature (in the shade) is 33°C and hotter in the camper. After a short exploration of the thermal pools, I am disappointed to see that two are closed (it says for cleaning) and the third has about eight Spanish people sat around on the low bench in about 9 inches of thermal spa water. I discover later that it should be full (up to their chests when sitting) but, of course there is no water at the moment due to the drought.
We carry our chairs down to the river and sit and read in the shade for an hour or so. As the sun gets lower the biting things come out so we return to the camper, open Alberiño wine and starters and sit with a mosquito coil burning which does the trick. Later we eat the crevette (langoustines) with thin sliced tomatoes and olives, perfect with the cold white wine and hot evening.
Gallery Penedones to Termal de Barbates
Click at image to enlarge
