After breakfast our English neighbours move on leaving us on our own.

We plan our route north towards Chartres, filling with water from the tap on the pitch, a last look at the depleted and very low lake then down the long drive to the servicing point by the road where we emptying the grey water and toilet cassette. Ready to leave about 10.45am, not able to visit the lovely Chateau de Cheverny as it is closed (only open at the weekend) to we take D-20 to Mur de Sologne, then D-765 north towards Blois.

The terrain has changed very noticeable, from hilly and wide-open spaces to mostly flat agricultural land consisting of huge, harvested fields now golden yellow with stalks and stubble. Crossing the Loire into the town of Blois, we continue north on D-924 through Villebarou, Oucques La Nouvelle and Moisy to Chateaudun. On the ring road around Chateaudun we stop at Ange’s, a very large Boulangerie with an amazing selection of breads, people are sat outside drinking coffee and eating these delicacies. Mr C. buys a selection, then onto N-10 a fast dual carriageway, passing through Bonneval and Thivars to Chartres.

We see the twin towers of the cathedral before we see the city and turn off towards the city. Passing Intermarché on the left we recall that this particular Intermarché is NOT motorhome-friendly, their filling station is extremely difficult to access and cannot accommodate our Hymer; we turn right towards the city and right again to Aire de Camping Chartres and park up on a space overlooking the large green field with the twin towers of the Cathedral visible.

When we were last here in 2023 when we watched a tremendous thunderstorm pass over the city, the torrential rain pour down over the green field in front of us, today it is warm and sunny, a very comfortable 22°C. We put on our shoes and walk the 1.5km along Rue St Brice to St Aignan Church.

Aignan (358–453), seventh Bishop of Orléans assisted Roman general Flavius Aetius in the defence of the city against Attila the Hun in 451 and thus became Saint Aignan. The first church (likely built in wood) was founded by Aignan d’Orléans some time in 5thcentury, nothing of that original building remains. It was enclosed between the walls of Chartres castle (now disappeared) that belonged to the Counts of Chartres. In the 9th century and in the late Middle Ages it was the partly rebuilt and became the first parish church of the city and the oldest of its resident buildings. It was rebuilt again in the 14th century in the Gothic style (characterised by pointed arches, rib vaults, flying buttresses and traceried stained-glass windows) and included a crypt. The main door (or portal) is original, quite small by today standards and is related to the narrowness of the alleys in the times when it was built. The terrace on the south side of the church covers the old cemetery and the small gate of the north aisle bears the date of 1541. Built in the same period was the tower, connected to the main building by a flying buttress (form of buttress that supports a wall from above using an arch and a pier) it carries a staircase (also dating from 1541). The gallery on the second floor was built in 1625, under Louis XIII. Source: Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)

Here we spend a pleasant hour looking around this ancient church with its lovely unspoiled, green-frescoed walls and magnificent stained-glass windows. In tableaux of 12 smaller windows each depicts the many Old Testament bible stories of Noah and the flood, Jonah and the whale (with enormous teeth!), Abraham & Isaac (ram in the thicket), Jacob’s ladder to heaven and many more. We could have stayed longer, such is the allure of the spiritual nature of this fabulous old church.

Next, we walk to the Cathedral of Notre Dame which, since our last visit has had its walls and pillars cleaned and painted cream, the restoration and painting now almost finished. It is a fabulous space inside with some amazing white relief stonework figures, but somehow after St Aignan it seems quite flat and very touristy! The cathedral itself is magnificent but does not have the same spiritual draw that is so clearly present in St Aignan.

Back to Hymer, it is 5.00pm, warm and sunny so we decide to drive the extra hour plus to the next stopover. Taking D-939 through the 30kph villages, pretty but oh-so-slow, we pass through Chateauneuf en Thymerais, Maillebois to Brezolles, keeping on D-929 through the town of Verneuil. Here the road noticeable narrows, through the small village of Fancheville to La Porelliere. Through the village, then we almost miss the Aire it is so small and behind green chain link fence! No one here, 7 gravel pitches just off the road. Not the prettiest place by far but functional and it is late, about 7.00pm so we stop. No electric hookup§ but water and emptying and a quiet stop next to the sports field.

We have fizz and rillette on baguette from Ange’s (delicious) with pork and fig pâté (from Intermarché) and salad for tea.

§ We don’t need electric hookup, our Hymer is an ‘off grid’ vehicle that has gas heating, gas powered hot water and a 3-way fridge freezer that runs off gas, 12v when driving or electric when available. It’s the right vehicle for us because the locations we visit do not usually have facilities.