2024 September: France and Spain – Riqueval to Bellegarde
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In the morning we note six motorhomes had parked overnight (two across empty car parking spaces by the road), clearly others agreed it was a good place to stop. We plan our day as we only did 86ml/139km yesterday, less than intended. Leaving at 10.30am it is already hot, continuing on D644 to Saint Quentin we call at ALDI to buy a couple of supplies. From St Quentin D1 south towards Paris to Soissons, a busy town which we have to drive through noting grand old properties reminiscent of more prosperous times. From Soissons N-2 takes us all the way to the Paris outer ring road. We stop on the way at Aire de Vauciennes for lunch, it is 32°C and difficult to find a cool spot.
Back on N-2, past Charles de Gaulle airport with its constant departures and arrivals and signs with dedicated route to Paris 2024 (Para-Olympics). The roads are congested, especially in the opposite direction and we note an exceptionally heavy police presence, about 20 ‘Black Marias’ (black police vans) with flashing blue lights… perhaps there is an ‘incident’ somewhere. We circumnavigate Paris about a third of the way round on A-104, diverging south on A-105 to Melun. We cross the Seine, still a mighty river at this point and take a very pleasant route on D-142/D-606 through Bois le Roi, clearly the old forest of the royal Hunting Lodge at Fontainebleau, for centuries the palace of the French kings (Louis’s also Henry II) and later Napoleon. Still an impressive wood but, like the New Forest much reduced in size and density now.
We arrive at the small town of Bellegarde about 4.45pm having travelled 163ml/262km and find the Municipal Aire on the edge of the town. It has ten level tarmac spaces, an excellent water point and disposal facility, lots of space and free (water €3). There are about six motorhomes already here, we park up and join them. It is hot, (31°C) and there is no shade but next to the Aire is a small campsite with about 36 grass pitches, divided by hedges and covered by mature trees. We walk over and talk to the warden; she encourages us to wander round and choose a pitch. We move onto pitch 33, under trees, near the toilet/shower block, it costs €15.50/night. We set up with floor mat, table and chairs under the shade and enjoy the peace and quiet and gentle ‘shushing’ of the trees overhead. An hour later, a bottle of fizz and hummus with baguette we are completely refreshed. In the early evening we have some of the jambon ham with salad and sit late into the evening as it darkens to night and the owl begins her nocturnal flight and woo-wooing.
[Bellegarde, if you look carefully at the map you can see that there are two facilities next to each other. One is an aire de camping cars, the other is a commercial campsite. On this occasion we arrived, parked on the aire on a great space then realised that it was HOT, and there was no shade. After some discussion we decided to move onto the adjacent campsite because it had really good mature trees that provided shade. We didn’t regret that decision.]
Bellgarde – day 2 :: We sleep late, woken occasionally by the ‘thug’ of an acorn as it falls onto the roof from the oak tree above (le gland tombe du chêne ci-dessus). A slow and slightly cooler morning, starting with a refreshing shower in an exceptionally clean shower/toilet block. After breakfast we walk the 7 minutes into the town and spend time exploring the old moated Chateau, the eglise and purchase fresh salad vegetables, goat’s cheese, some cotton clothes from the market (unexpected on a Monday).
Le Chateau de Bellegarde was built in the late 14th century by Nicolas Braque, the lord of the vast fiefdom of Soisy aux Loges, as Bellegarde was known then. On a sunny day, the old keep with its corbelled turrets can be seen reflected in the rose bordered moat which bear the traces of almost 700 years of history. At the turn of the 18th century the ancient keep, improved by the Marques of Montespan and her son the Duke of Antin, entered a new golden age. In 1711 he became a Knight of the Garter and a confidant of Louis XIV and, over a lifetime managed several of his architectural projects. Louis the Sun King loved gardens, flowers and scents, perhaps his influence and the rose garden of Bellegarde has lingered ever since.
The afternoon is warm and sunny just right at 24°C, we sit on our own (the only unit on the campsite and only one motorhome next door on the Aire) in peace and solitude we read, write and Mr C. dabbles with his water colours. It is a totally relaxing time and much needed after some intense travelling. Later more units arrive for overnight stops. We open wine and enjoy the ambiance of dappled leaves and their shadows dancing on almost every surface reflected by the sun.
Photos from Riqueval to Bellgarde
click any thumbnail image to enlarge
